Line up the tip of the tooth at the top of the chain with the groove on the inside of the derailleur, and line up the front chainring with the grooves on the front and rear of the derailleur.
If you've done this correctly, then there should be a mm gap between the top of the teeth on the chainring and the bottom edge of the outside of the derailleur cage. On some frames you will also need to use a small bracing wedge that slots in between the frame and the front derailleur to hold it securely, although this wasn't necessary on the Canyon Aeroad shown int he video above.
Next, you need to install the rear derailleur. Unlike the front derailleur, you need to start with the rear derailleur in the same position as if you were in the largest sprocket on your cassette. First use a 5mm Allen key to attach the derailleur to the derailleur hanger to a tightness of Nm. The goal is to have the jockey wheel perfectly aligned with the teeth on the largest sprocket.
To micro-adjust the derailleur away from the wheel, hold down the function button on the right shifter while simultaneously pushing the shifter. To move the derailleur in the other direction, do the same with the left shifter. Use a 2. You should be looking to have a mm gap between the bottom of the cassette and the top of the jockey wheels.
The same tool is used to adjust the limits of the derailleur. The low limit will govern how far the derailleur can shift towards the wheel, with the adjustment screw located just below the battery housing. You should adjust this so it just lightly touches the derailleur arm. To do the same with the high limit, first shift the derailleur so it is lined up with the smallest sprocket on the cassette, then adjust the high limit screw located to the right of the battery housing so it also lightly touches the derailleur arm.
Next, you need to install the chain. Wrap the chain around the large chainring and the biggest rear sprocket. From where the chain meets add one outer link and one inner link.
Remove any surplus links using a chain breaker. Move the chain into the smallest rear sprocket, route it through the rear derailleur, then connect the two ends using a SRAM PowerLock, or, if you are using a Shimano chain, then with a connecting pin.
While the rear derailleur is now properly adjusted, you still need to do the same with the front derailleur. To start shift the chain into the big chainring and the smallest sprocket of the cassette. The first step is to adjust the high limit screw. This is located on the outside of the front derailleur arm, just below the "Red" logo. Using a 2. To adjust the low limit, shift the chain into the small chainring and the largest sprocket. The low limit screw is also located on the outside of the derailleur arm, just below the high limit screw.
The low limit screw is threaded in the other direction to the high limit screw, so you will need to turn it clockwise to move it away from the frame, and anti-clockwise to move it in the other direction. You should be aiming for a 0.
Finally, you might need to micro-adjust the rear derailleur to achieve perfect shifting. To move the rear derailleur outwards press the function button on the right derailleur while simultaneously pushing the shifter, and to move the derailleur inwards do the same, but on the left shifter. It is possible that the micro-adjustment might be too small for you to see it, so look out for the light on the rear derailleur to blink to be sure that an adjustment has occured.
Henry Robertshaw began his time at Cycling Weekly working with the tech team, writing reviews, buying guides and appearing in videos advising on how to dress for the seasons. He later moved over to the news team, where his work focused on the professional peloton as well as legislation and provision for cycling.
He's since moved his career in a new direction, with a role at the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs. Dec 14, SRAM's newer front mechs use 'Yaw' technology, and adjusting them is different to adjusting a traditional mech. So, in this video, Simon runs you through the key points. Got a mechanical video. Visit our online support hub for ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit.
Curabitur ac ullamcorper nisi. Ut accumsan pulvinar nulla sed laoreet. X-GlideR Chainrings are designed for an optimized shifting performance with the Yaw front derailleur. CNC machining allows for precision control of each tooth shape, ramp, and nearly every shifting feature of the chainring. The chainrings, chain, and front derailleur are designed as a single integrated system for optimized performance.
With a front derailleur cage that rotates to maintain a consistent angular relationship with the chain, Yaw technology eliminates the need for shifter trim.
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